And from the outside - our happy home. Will we ever want to leave?

And the mandatory toilet pic. We even have a window! No peeking!!!

Our beautiful tiled bathroom - no stinkiness from non-drying concrete floors!

The inside of our spacious new bungalow - with a wardrobe!!!

Two Urbanites after a good day.

And a little on the face...

War wounds from Songkran - Thai New Year - when the streets become the battlefield for one big water fight. You can't avoid it even if you want to. The white stuff is talc, usually applied in small amounts to the face as a mark of affection from the locals. John got a bucketful on the back. Thailand must really love him.

One very happy camper.

Getting groomed by Lina and Nina the swedish duo.

View of our new verandah.

Pass go, collect 200 baht

It has been a while.

So, Trang...
An interesting town, subtly different from Krabi, but still the square concrete buildings, dirty streets and millions of street stalls and food shops like the other towns we've visited in Thailand. The first night, Dan and Lit took Tiff to dinner at a 'spicy' restaurant, taking advantage of the fact that spice-intolerant John was not joining us. Even so, Tiff's hosts asked for the food to be toned down, as Tiff was only just coming to enjoy the spice of life in Thai food. It was HOT!!! She ate more rice than spice, but enjoyed the experience immensely (despite the occasional noise and smell of pub karaoke coming out of the restaurant door).

The next day, taking advantage of small-space-intolerant John's absence, Tiff, Dan and Lit went to visit some nearby caves accessed only by boat. The journey went along a kind of subterranean river, under the local mountain. Some interesting formations were on the tour, but the major attraction was the 'only just' squeezes of the boat travelling under an extremely low ceiling - ie. with three people on the boat, the driver was concerned we wouldn't be heavy enough to sink enough to get under the rock - even when we were lying down.

Meanwhile, back at the bungalow on Tonsai...
"At least I have the bathroom to myself..."

Back in Trang, Tiff was enjoying a massage from Lit (who is currently studying massage at a nearby college), who then cooked up a storm. Speaking of food, breakfast that morning had consisted of vat fried pork - fatty, greasy and with lots and lots of crackling!!!! A visit to the local markets that morning was also an eye opener, explaining why supermarkets hold next to no fresh food.

As Lit and Dan departed for a week-long meditation camp in the mountains, Tiff took the long, lonely journey back to Tonsai, where the sickly John eagerly awaited her and the Macca's she was bringing home...

So John got better, Tiff's injuries still bothered her, but we climbed lots and hard for the next few weeks. John is working Phet Mak Mak (7c+/28), Old Chicken Makes Good Soup (8a/29), Tantrum (8a+/30), Asia's Shadow Play (8a+/30), but is no longer working Voodoo Doll (7c+/28)as the curse has finally been lifted and a send has been allowed. Tiff tried Asia's Shadow Play and Phet Mak Mak, and decided to stick with Hang Ten (7c/27) and Gaeng Som Pla (7c+/28).

We have explored a lot of the crags around Tonsai, but spend most of our time at Tonsai crag - hugely overhanging roof with the majority of routes above 7a+ (24). This means it is the best place for us to work hard projects and get severely trashed. It is also conveniently located only 10m from the bar and about 5mins walk from our bungalow.

Tonsai gets quieter everyday, with seemingly more tourists than climbers making up the population. Most of our friends here have left now, and for a week there our climbing time was impaired by the waving off of friends in longboats. If they were leaving at 10, you come down at 8 and eat breakfast with them (after a farewell dinner the evening before), then spend another half hour with them waiting for the longboat driver to get five people together (the minimum for the cheapest per person fare). The sad part is then waving them off and having lunch lamenting that fact that everyone's leaving and you're alone again. And then you have a nap and maybe do some climbing in the afternoon. So seeing someone off is a day and a half affair.

These symptoms can also be ascribed to the well known disease of Tonsai-itis. This is an illness which is aquired over time spent in the Thai bay of 'Tonsai'. Its' victims complain of tiredness, fatigue, and unwillingness to move beyond the beach or even one's bungalow. Excessive eating, drinking, reading and playing of pool and chess are characteristic of Tonsai-itis, and only very rarely will the patient be seen engaging in the otherwise popular activity of 'climbing'. Tiff and John have both been diagnosed by their peers with severe Tonsai-itis. We really should see a doctor, but we couldn't be arsed.

The other major happening has been the arrival of our Care Package, brought over by the Urban Crew. It contained lots of goodies from home, replacement parts and big hugs (thanks Mum/Jan). The Urban Crew contained Adz, Jaye, Stu, Lucy, Chucky, Colleen, Brent and later Yogi and Megan.

The contrast between our Tonsai friends and these ones from back home was marked. To interact with people from the 'real world' as opposed to 'Tonsai-itis sufferers' was an eye opener. The sense of humour is completely different, as are the topics of conversations and the pace at which we speak (partly slower with others from Tonsai due to the international nature of our fellows). Furthermore, Tonsai-itis sufferers can sympathise, empathise and respect what others of their kind are going through.

The pace of life and areas of congregation vary greatly - 'Freedom Bar' and 'Phra Nang Beach' are the Urban Crew hangouts, whereas 'Bungalow' and 'Tonsai Crag' are the haunts of the long-termers. The Urban Crew does more than two climbs a day. We try for two climbs in two days, and then have a rest day.

Having new arrivals brings into focus the sense of community that Tonsai long-termers share. Whereas everyone who has been here long-term looks out for each other, people from the outside world tend to be caught up in their own space with their own agendas, and less consideration for what others are doing - even within the group.

Having said all this, the familiar faces from home have helped us feel more secure in where we are, and appreciate what we have here. Things don't seem so bad (oh we forgot to mention in other posts that one of our quickdraws and John's Tevas were stolen...) and we have more confidence in the lifestyle we've chosen and our ambitious 'try to take over the world' plans.

With so many people leaving, to return to...., and with new arrivals acting under x timeframe, before they have to return to...., makes us realise that we have no commitments - work, school or other, and that we have the absolute freedom of choice and luxury of time. It is liberating. Only now do we really feel like we're getting into holiday mode and chill time, and can deal with the stresses and rigours of relaxing and travelling.

Prices have come down by more than half, so much so, that we've opted to move out of our comfortable, sentimentally valued dwelling at Paasook Resort, into a spacious, wooden bungalow that we had liked when we first arrived but which was too expensive at the time. So now we're paying 140 baht ($5) per night, for a massive upgrade in comfort and space. We're now living in Green Valley (West End), next door to the Peace and Love Bar (Thai Lychee Lounge).

Leaving Paasook reminded us that we're travellers, and that we can't afford to get too comfortable or attached to any particular place. It also taught us that mould likes to grow in the bottom of backpacks left on cement which leaches damp straight from the ground (discovered during the move).

We are also at the point where we, John and Tiffany, feel like we are operating in a more unified way. We are able to discuss and compromise, negotiate and concede without trauma, negativity or too much pouting. We have hit a new stride in our relationship, and feel that we can leap over tall obstacles (like cliffs/concussion/major sickness/theft/mould) in a single, harmonious bound.

Things to remember for the future:

Life is not that bad.
We are rich Westerners, however poor we are.
Bring a human guide when going deep water soloing.
Thai waitresses get playful and cheeky if you bug them enough.
There's a slight curve towards a corner pocket in the Freedom Bar pool table.
You can do almost any hard route if you work it for long enough.
Long walks at sunset on Tonsai beach are not fun if you're not wearing shoes.
Langurs are beautiful and have golden babies.
Squirrels are really noisy during mating season.
Trees are NOT empty.
The tide rises really quickly and has lots of waves this time of year.
Longboat drivers don't like this time of year.
We have all the time in the world.

saintrinity
John and Tiff


p.s.
If there is only one thing we will miss about Tonsai, it will be the longboat travel on turquoise waters with the wind through your hair and the salt and water on your face. This feeling surpasses all misfortunes.

Super Psycho Cicadas

The cicada skin army Lit made on the tree outside our cabin - to protect or attack us we're not quite sure...

Chalking up before the crux...

John climbing his project 'Voodoo Doll' (7c+) with a longboat in the background.

A beautiful sunset - rarely seen from Tonsai (the Sunset Series was taken on Railay West)

And just about to finish... Quite an overcast day and storm clouds in the background.

And further out...

John on Burnt Offerings (7a+)

A beach soccer game as seen from the Burnt Offerings (7a+) ledge. The players are great and watching is a very popular pastime among loacls and tourists alike. The teams are made up of hotels, restaurants and bars in the area - some of Paasooks staff are players!!! The field is sloped to the water and they have to wait 'til the tide goes out and clear the field of rocks and shells before playing can commence. The field is marked by red string.

Tiff and three of the "Bina Sisters" (Tina, Bina, Ina, Lina and Nina - the last three shown here L to R). We are having lots of fun nicknaming Tonsai's inhabitants!!!

A Quick Six

At least our optimistic spin on things is improving.

After a four day break, Tiff was too frustrated not to climb and so jumped on a moderate warm-up climb which proved painful but not agonising. Over lunch she debated the pros and cons of climbing with injury and decided not to climb again, though when they got to the after-lunch crag it was another story.

All of Tiff's students ignore this next bit: DO NOT CLIMB WHEN INJURED!!!

So Tiff taped up and jumped on the hardest climb she'd ever tried (Gaeng Som Plaa 7c+/28). She worked all the start moves, but at the halfway point crux move (a large one-armed throw off a three finger pocket), she tweaked her wrist on the same arm as the elbow injury. John threw her up the tape and everything held nicely in place by fabric and adhesive, she finished off the climb with a minimum of fuss. She then RESTED for a week (until today).

Tiff has therefore been John's belay slave for the last week. She is getting VERY good at belaying (even John thinks so), and has had the privilege of watching John work some 8as (29/30).

Five days ago Dan (Australian climbing friend who lives in Trang with his wife Lit) came to Tonsai to do the first climbing he'd done in six months. That happened on the day that Tiff was sick (for the second time since we've been here) after four days of build up, and the start of John's build up with the same virus. John's new name for Tiff is 'Iron-gutted Bitch' because even when she gets sick, all she has to do is throw up once and she feels on top of the world again.

So in between toilet runs, only a little climbing was done (Dan did four climbs while at Tonsai), and this brings me to the present.

John is currently immovable due to toilet proximity in the cabin at Tonsai while Tiff has journeyed with Dan and Lit to their place at Trang (three hours from Tonsai) to see the sights over the next couple of days. I hear all of you out there gasp - for various reasons. Primarily, anyone who knows us will understand how momentous it is that we have separated for a night (not done since the Asian X Games in Feb 2004), and also that Tiff has left John alone and untended while sick.

Well, it was at John's machinations that this has occurred. Sick of being sick and feeling like he is holding back parts of the trip that at least one of us could enjoy, he has sent Tiff forth into the world with pad, pen and camera with instructions to give him the experiences he could not have due to his silly tummy. He will try and join us tomorrow, and we are optimistic. Anyone watching us part on the beach would have thought Tiff was going thousands of kilometres away for a very long time the way we carried on. But it's so hard to leave the one(s) you love - even for a little distance and short period of time.

On a good note, the rain has cleared well and although we are getting some overcast days (which actually mostly keep the temperature down), the rock is dry and our clothes don't smell like cheese. YAY! The poo smell is less in the drier weather also, and we are learning when not to breathe (i.e. passing certain parts of the community).

So Tiff is up for a few more rest days (which will be good as the tweaks are still there, albeit improving), and hopefully John's bouts of sickness will improve his gut's immunity to bugs in areas when we are travelling around more (e.g. India and Nepal) and it is of greater import to be well.

During the general malaise that has been resting upon us, we have spent more relaxed time on the beach, unable to climb. And although Noosa and Peregian are cleaner, the Andaman breezes and picturesque scenes have made us happy we are here, for everything we gain from the experience. Thanks to those we know and those we don't who keep it in perspective (read 'My Forbidden Face' by Latifa or 'How I Live Now' by ???), and again, tell us what is happening back home. We then know we are not forgotten. For what is life, if not memory in the hearts of friends?

In each others arms, on a beach, under a cliff in Thailand, watching a sunset,

Tiff and John
saintrinity