Pass go, collect 200 baht

It has been a while.

So, Trang...
An interesting town, subtly different from Krabi, but still the square concrete buildings, dirty streets and millions of street stalls and food shops like the other towns we've visited in Thailand. The first night, Dan and Lit took Tiff to dinner at a 'spicy' restaurant, taking advantage of the fact that spice-intolerant John was not joining us. Even so, Tiff's hosts asked for the food to be toned down, as Tiff was only just coming to enjoy the spice of life in Thai food. It was HOT!!! She ate more rice than spice, but enjoyed the experience immensely (despite the occasional noise and smell of pub karaoke coming out of the restaurant door).

The next day, taking advantage of small-space-intolerant John's absence, Tiff, Dan and Lit went to visit some nearby caves accessed only by boat. The journey went along a kind of subterranean river, under the local mountain. Some interesting formations were on the tour, but the major attraction was the 'only just' squeezes of the boat travelling under an extremely low ceiling - ie. with three people on the boat, the driver was concerned we wouldn't be heavy enough to sink enough to get under the rock - even when we were lying down.

Meanwhile, back at the bungalow on Tonsai...
"At least I have the bathroom to myself..."

Back in Trang, Tiff was enjoying a massage from Lit (who is currently studying massage at a nearby college), who then cooked up a storm. Speaking of food, breakfast that morning had consisted of vat fried pork - fatty, greasy and with lots and lots of crackling!!!! A visit to the local markets that morning was also an eye opener, explaining why supermarkets hold next to no fresh food.

As Lit and Dan departed for a week-long meditation camp in the mountains, Tiff took the long, lonely journey back to Tonsai, where the sickly John eagerly awaited her and the Macca's she was bringing home...

So John got better, Tiff's injuries still bothered her, but we climbed lots and hard for the next few weeks. John is working Phet Mak Mak (7c+/28), Old Chicken Makes Good Soup (8a/29), Tantrum (8a+/30), Asia's Shadow Play (8a+/30), but is no longer working Voodoo Doll (7c+/28)as the curse has finally been lifted and a send has been allowed. Tiff tried Asia's Shadow Play and Phet Mak Mak, and decided to stick with Hang Ten (7c/27) and Gaeng Som Pla (7c+/28).

We have explored a lot of the crags around Tonsai, but spend most of our time at Tonsai crag - hugely overhanging roof with the majority of routes above 7a+ (24). This means it is the best place for us to work hard projects and get severely trashed. It is also conveniently located only 10m from the bar and about 5mins walk from our bungalow.

Tonsai gets quieter everyday, with seemingly more tourists than climbers making up the population. Most of our friends here have left now, and for a week there our climbing time was impaired by the waving off of friends in longboats. If they were leaving at 10, you come down at 8 and eat breakfast with them (after a farewell dinner the evening before), then spend another half hour with them waiting for the longboat driver to get five people together (the minimum for the cheapest per person fare). The sad part is then waving them off and having lunch lamenting that fact that everyone's leaving and you're alone again. And then you have a nap and maybe do some climbing in the afternoon. So seeing someone off is a day and a half affair.

These symptoms can also be ascribed to the well known disease of Tonsai-itis. This is an illness which is aquired over time spent in the Thai bay of 'Tonsai'. Its' victims complain of tiredness, fatigue, and unwillingness to move beyond the beach or even one's bungalow. Excessive eating, drinking, reading and playing of pool and chess are characteristic of Tonsai-itis, and only very rarely will the patient be seen engaging in the otherwise popular activity of 'climbing'. Tiff and John have both been diagnosed by their peers with severe Tonsai-itis. We really should see a doctor, but we couldn't be arsed.

The other major happening has been the arrival of our Care Package, brought over by the Urban Crew. It contained lots of goodies from home, replacement parts and big hugs (thanks Mum/Jan). The Urban Crew contained Adz, Jaye, Stu, Lucy, Chucky, Colleen, Brent and later Yogi and Megan.

The contrast between our Tonsai friends and these ones from back home was marked. To interact with people from the 'real world' as opposed to 'Tonsai-itis sufferers' was an eye opener. The sense of humour is completely different, as are the topics of conversations and the pace at which we speak (partly slower with others from Tonsai due to the international nature of our fellows). Furthermore, Tonsai-itis sufferers can sympathise, empathise and respect what others of their kind are going through.

The pace of life and areas of congregation vary greatly - 'Freedom Bar' and 'Phra Nang Beach' are the Urban Crew hangouts, whereas 'Bungalow' and 'Tonsai Crag' are the haunts of the long-termers. The Urban Crew does more than two climbs a day. We try for two climbs in two days, and then have a rest day.

Having new arrivals brings into focus the sense of community that Tonsai long-termers share. Whereas everyone who has been here long-term looks out for each other, people from the outside world tend to be caught up in their own space with their own agendas, and less consideration for what others are doing - even within the group.

Having said all this, the familiar faces from home have helped us feel more secure in where we are, and appreciate what we have here. Things don't seem so bad (oh we forgot to mention in other posts that one of our quickdraws and John's Tevas were stolen...) and we have more confidence in the lifestyle we've chosen and our ambitious 'try to take over the world' plans.

With so many people leaving, to return to...., and with new arrivals acting under x timeframe, before they have to return to...., makes us realise that we have no commitments - work, school or other, and that we have the absolute freedom of choice and luxury of time. It is liberating. Only now do we really feel like we're getting into holiday mode and chill time, and can deal with the stresses and rigours of relaxing and travelling.

Prices have come down by more than half, so much so, that we've opted to move out of our comfortable, sentimentally valued dwelling at Paasook Resort, into a spacious, wooden bungalow that we had liked when we first arrived but which was too expensive at the time. So now we're paying 140 baht ($5) per night, for a massive upgrade in comfort and space. We're now living in Green Valley (West End), next door to the Peace and Love Bar (Thai Lychee Lounge).

Leaving Paasook reminded us that we're travellers, and that we can't afford to get too comfortable or attached to any particular place. It also taught us that mould likes to grow in the bottom of backpacks left on cement which leaches damp straight from the ground (discovered during the move).

We are also at the point where we, John and Tiffany, feel like we are operating in a more unified way. We are able to discuss and compromise, negotiate and concede without trauma, negativity or too much pouting. We have hit a new stride in our relationship, and feel that we can leap over tall obstacles (like cliffs/concussion/major sickness/theft/mould) in a single, harmonious bound.

Things to remember for the future:

Life is not that bad.
We are rich Westerners, however poor we are.
Bring a human guide when going deep water soloing.
Thai waitresses get playful and cheeky if you bug them enough.
There's a slight curve towards a corner pocket in the Freedom Bar pool table.
You can do almost any hard route if you work it for long enough.
Long walks at sunset on Tonsai beach are not fun if you're not wearing shoes.
Langurs are beautiful and have golden babies.
Squirrels are really noisy during mating season.
Trees are NOT empty.
The tide rises really quickly and has lots of waves this time of year.
Longboat drivers don't like this time of year.
We have all the time in the world.

saintrinity
John and Tiff


p.s.
If there is only one thing we will miss about Tonsai, it will be the longboat travel on turquoise waters with the wind through your hair and the salt and water on your face. This feeling surpasses all misfortunes.