Black Canasta

So where were we? The Urban Crew were here; they came, they climbed, they played pool, and one by one they left.

During their stay there were many fine moments: a visit from the mysterious Easter Bunny, Lucy's onsight of Babes (In Thailand, 7a/23), a beautiful day on the boat "deep water soloing" and Megan's birthday dinner at the jewel in the crown ofPhra Nang Peninsula's resort restaurants - Rayavadee. Many have dreamt of this place, few have ever been inside (except for Brad Pitt), but thanks to Yogi's "negotiation skills" we were some of the lucky few. We got to enjoy a private glass-walled room that was the envy of every other diner, and we were proud to say that we were from Tonsai - the "other" end of town. Yes, even Tonsai residents can eat in style every now and again. Our head waiter was an absolute joy, full of trivia and humour. He taught us that " Oh my Buddha" is a more appropriate exclamation than the Christian equivalent. The meal was absolutely divine, and the bringing out of a surprise birthday cake brought the meal to a special close. Happy Birthday Megan!!!

That night also happened to be the night we decided to 'live it up' at Railay as tourists (as opposed to travellers). We lounged by the pool, watched TV in our room and enjoyed a scalding hot / lukewarm / cold shower - the first warm-ish shower we've had in a month. We rose early to see the sun rise but missed it behind clouds. We enjoyed a smorgasbourd brekky swarming with bees (non-stinging), then the effects of our rich dinner, large breakfast and general malaise saw to it that our bold plans for an assault on Thaiwand Wall gave way to lounging by the pool.

In other news, on the same day Tiff sent Hang Ten (7c/27 - finally!) and John sent Phet Mak Mak (7c+/8a, 28/29) in fine form after only a handful of attempts (celebrated with grilled cheese sandwiches, beer, icecream and pool). Tiff has done her next project Gaeng Som Pla (7c+/28) with only one fall, as has John on his project Old Chicken Makes Good Soup (8a/8a+, 29/30). We are also spending time visiting the remaining crags we have yet to experience, and trying out some of the non-climbing activities Krabi has to offer.

Such as the Phi Phi Island Tour that we went on with Tiff's dad Tony, and partner Jennie. The day dawned clear and bright, the water turquoise and transparent - surprising after the previous four days of stormy seas and dark skies. We were picked up from Tonsai by a speed boat (an unheard of phenomenon) much to the envy of all those waiting for longboats.

Speaking of longboats, picking Tony and Jennie up from Ao Nang turned out to be more than we had bargained for. John didn't think he was going to go for a swim when boarding, but throwing his leg over the side and being comically springboarded by a plank had him upside down swallowing mouthfuls of diesel water. Yes the "I'm a local, I've been doing this for months, I'll show you how it's done with ease..." demonstration, didn't quite work, much to the delight of the longboat driver.

Back to the speedboat. What a joy and difference it is to be on a boat that moves fast and smoothly. The pristine white sands of Bamboo Island, the hundreds of varities of fish and coral at various different spots around Phi Phi, and, regretably, the swarms of tourists at Maya Bay (set for 'The Beach') made up the rest of our fantastic day.

On Phi Phi Don proper, the site of enormous devastation from Tsunami 2004, John encountered an eerie reminder of the tragedy. In one of the major hotels, still under cleanup and reconstruction, he found muddy handprints and smears high on the walls and ceilings of a staircase leading down to the basement. This, in addition to wreckage piled up in all corners, meant that the disaster hit home for the first time.

Apart from the obvious emotional meaning of seeing Tony, his and Jennie's visit was marked by an immense slowing down of the pace of our lives. A mobility issue due to past injuries saw to it that Jennie's agility was severely limited. This meant getting in and out of all boats (especially longboats [still she did it a whole lot more elegantly than John]) became a trial, and a source of constant concern. Even walking along the beach and dirt paths which make up Tonsai was a laborious task. Here we would like to say that Jennie has our utmost admiration and respect. She never complained, never asked for help or indicated that she needed special consideration. We're sure she felt embarrassed by needing extra help, and felt she was holding us up, but she handled it with grace and dignity and always with a sense of humour. She showed bravery in even coming here, knowing that transportation was going to be difficult. Thankyou for making the effort Jennie.

The other Krabi delight was our trip to Wat Tham Seua - the Tiger Cave Temple. Hiring a scooter from Ao Nang, gave us the freedom and thrill of two wheeled independence - travelling like a local. The sights, the smells, the atmosphere, all became much more vivid. Making our way from Ao Nang to Krabi, and then onwards to the forest wat we could see the mountaintop temple glittering in the distance. We had heard of the thousand stair walk to the top, and were warned that it would be a severe drain on energy and test of fitness levels - but we've been climbing for two months, and walking much more than at home - how hard can it be? Upon reaching the 333rd step, breathless and exhausted, we realised we had a little more conditioning to do before we start trekking in India and Nepal. We guess being in the presence of Buddha is very humbling. 900 odd steps, countless rests and not enough water later, we climbed the last step together. Greeted by a 'handyman' monk, complete with utilitarian robes featuring zips, pockets and tool belt (ie. cargo-esque) we were refreshed by the cool water he offered (from the water fountain he had just fixed). Also, awaiting us at the top of the 600 metre mountain were massive monuments and statues of Buddha and other idols. A beautiful moment of peace to ourselves gave us the opportunity to reflect on our journey so far and ponder the road ahead, of the friends we've made and said goodbye to. As as with all tourist attractions, it soon became very busy and noisy so we commenced the supposedly 'easy' downward leg (insert jelly-leg cramp here).

All goodbyes here leave us emotional and pensive. The rapidfire departures of individuals from the Urban Crew were difficult, to then be followed by Tonsai friends leaving, Tony and Jennie, and Megan and Yogi.

The latter pair have had a profound impact on our perceptions of the future and confidence within ourselves. Conversation on all matters just flowed, and their understanding and expertise gave us a support base that we had been lacking. They were here for such a short time, but everyone, local or international guest alike, immediately felt at ease with them. This is what we aspire to. The knowledge alone that we have these friends in our lives, regardless of what part of the world they or we are in, buoys us in our pending journeys.

So we have decided on our departure date. Having become much too comfortable with our lives here, Tiff is restless and John risks settling down and becoming a Thai National. Due to low season, food is getting worse (older, riskier), rain is getting more frequent and heavier, and the ratio of nice to nasty people is getting smaller (a nasty man abused Tiff for talking too long and too loud on the phone to mum and dad back home - nasty John then abused nasty man for abusing Tiff - all this is the middle of a crowded restaurant).

We leave for Trang on the 26th, do a Malaysian border run to give us another 30 days in Thailand, and then train to Bangkok. We will apply for our Indian visas, and the tour Chiang Mai and Northern Thailand (hopefully by scooter again - EXCITING!!!) while waiting for them to come through.

Updating our Wisdom List:
Don't argue with a fool (or a nasty man), because noone will be able to tell the difference.
Swearing loudly in public in Thailand is still swearing in public.
Poo from a monkey is still poo (no matter how many photos tourists take of them).
You don't need a prescription for prescription medications in Thailand.
Anyone can be a doctor (or drugdealer) with self-diagnosis and access to a Thai pharmacy.
Keep your mouth closed when you're riding a scooter.
Bugs are not tasty.
Showing off only ever ends up in one way (usually falling out of a boat).
Thais use lowgrade diesel that is not easily digestible.
If you swim in a fish feeding frenzy you will look tasty to a fish.
Making new friends rocks.
Saying goodbye sucks.
You can never have enough wisdom.
Humour transcends all cultural barriers (der).

If you're happy and you know it (or you want to be happy):
Clap your hands.
Ride on the back of a Sangteaw.
Hire a Scooter.
Ride in a longboat/speedboat.
Climb 1237 steps.
Look at your loved one(s).
Laugh at someone who's fallen out of a longboat.
Accept a massage from a complete stranger.
Clap your hands again.

Please keep sending emails, we love to hear from you. Hello to all our friends we've just said goodbye to.

In the pursuit of peace,
saintrinity
John and Tiff