The climb that you can see from our porch is Britishly White (7a

...with flushable toilet

Our new bathroom... before we scrubbed the floors.

The view from our Bungalow - Cabin

Lose a Turn

So, the next step in the saga of Tiff and John's epic continue. As John's strength returns, Tiff is on her way out with injuries. It seems we can't be climbing strong simultaneously?!?!?

All was going well, Tiff sent Tidal Wave and felt a bit of a tweak in her elbow so rested the remainder of that day. She had a massage that evening and woke up the next morning with an extremely painful back.

She was able to move enough to belay John (who got his project with only one fall and opened another 7c+ project) and lay down for the rest of the day. We then had two rest days. on the first one, Tiff's back got much better. on the second, she tweaked it again by hanging doubled over on the hammock. So she's pretty frustrated (oh, yeah, and her elbow's not better). So, Tiff's not doing a lot of climbing at the moment, and John's carrying around all the gear. Where's Mark Kelly when you need him?

But on other news, we found the Thai equivalent of the Lychee Lounge and it rocks!!! I's also run by the Thai version of Elie Moubarak, right down to the husky voice. You've got a Thai brother my brother - who calls everyone brother too. The decor is tastfully arty and the tunes are laidback soulful groove. The cocktail menu is 'interesting' and much cheaper than the Lychee (about $5 a cocktail) Sorry Moubs!

The rain is getting heavier and earlier every day. It is often raining through the night, which means that even at overhanging crags which haven't received direct rain are getting wet from water seepage. This makes climbing even more frustrating, especially since we compiled our 'To Do' list recently and there are 99 climbs on it - and approximately 40 climbing days to do them in - if the rains, food, falling objects and injury don't ruin our plans. The climbs cover almost every crag and range from 6b+ to 8b. The other thing about the rain is that everything stays damp. your clothes start to smell like cheese beacuse you sweat in them, wash them and then they take a week to dry. Your bed clothes feel dirty and smell damp because of all the water in the atmosphere. It's generally unpleasant.

We are composing poems at the moment, to try and describe our time here. We will post it when it's done (if we deem it appropriate)... We have read about ten books so far, most of them really really crap. So if anyone has any books you think we'd like to read on rainy afternoons, please give them to Janet Melius to send over in our mercy pack. Non-Thai books here are very expensive, even second hand.

With all that's happened so far and the rains coming in, we are contemplating moving onto the next leg of our trip early and possibly coming back to Thailand at a later date (hopefully starting under good stars this time). We will keep you posted though. There are people coming over that we will be meeting up with so maybe we'll stick to the original plan and hope everything works itself out.

Things we've learnt so far:
Just because paradise looks good, doesn't mean it has smells to match.
The bum gun isn't the most hygenic implement in the world (hose in the toilet to replace toilet paper).
Toilet paper is probably man's greatest invention (after sliced bread and hot water).
Turquoise water looks great but tastes and feels like diesel (from the longboats).
DEET makes your skin peel.
Mozzies don't mind DEET - go figure.
Hammocks are dangerous.
Icebreakers ROCK!!!
Climbing sucks (hang on, we knew that before - damn love hate relationships, I can quit anytime I want).
Slack sometimes means take (and vice versa) to the belayer - especially after you've just done the crux move on your project (ie. getting pulled off a route sucks).
The Thai 'Land of Smiles' means they're laughing AT you, not WITH you.
If we didn't have bad luck, we wouldn't have any luck at all.
Getting rained on here is much like getting rained on back home - you get wet, but here you smell like poo too.
Sitting in rain in Thailand, smelling like poo, makes you philosophical.
"Same Same but Different" means everything is the same here as back home but the difference is everything smells like poo.
Poo takes up a lot of your thought processes in Thailand.
Poo Happens.

Finally, the climbing here is amazing and the biggest thing we've learnt is patience, tolerance, understanding and adaptability are essential. None of these things we've been able to put into practice so far, but we're still working on those. Tomorrow is another day after all. Oh, and Vick's Vapour rub (widely available from massage stores) applied liberally under the nose helps with the poo smell.

John and Tiff
saintrinity

ps.
T: "What a depressing post!"
J: "Well it can't be peaches and cream all the time. Besides they don't have peaches here and the cream is fake. But they do have mango and taro, or some sort of soy substitute. Let's go, I have to poo now."

Tiff and Nina (the girl who went with us and held John's hand at Krabi Hospital) about to do Reminiscence (7a+)

Tiff's legs hanging out of the hammock on our attractive orange front porch...

Step One Variant

Hello All!

This post is thankfully uneventful. After the dramas of the last week, we are happy to report that nothing but recovery, and climbing (devoted rehab) has begun again.

Tiff is working on a Tonsai classic 'Tidal Wave' (7b+/26) and John on Voodoo Doll (7c+/28) - another climb on the roof of the Tonsai Wall.

It has started raining every afternoon now, which is weird because it's meant to be getting really hot now until June, when it starts raining each afternoon and then pouring in July until September. It's nice, and soothes the humidity of the day away, but it means that only overhanging crags are in in the afternoon.

A lot of people have left since we got here. The whole place has gone quiet and at night it's a bit eerie - a huge contrast to before our ill-motivated trip to Ao Nang. The climbs are easier to access now - no waiting in line for the classics.

We went exploring yesterday afternoon and found all the cliffs down to the nothern end of Tonsai beach. Some very cool routes there, although because they are a ten minute walk (as opposed to two minutes) from the main drag, they are less popular.

We have yet to explore Railay crags (twenty minutes walk from our cabin), but we have heaps of time to go. We have made some friends, so hopefully can get you some climbing pictures soon.

We are in Krabi today - bought ourselves a gas stove and some breakfast foods. We have had our first pizzas and they were heaven!!! The contrast to the staple Thai foods was such a relief (although Tiff got really sick from the wheat and cheese it was worth it). And they home deliver! We had KFC today and it was he same disgusting greasy crap you get in Australia, but again it was a welcome change. So we will make ouselves breakfast around 7am (the restaurants open at 7:30), and make ourselves a night meal every once in a while (and try to stay away from pizza and KFC).

We are currently being bombarded with what sounds like propaganda from a truck driving past blaring Thai music and speeches - perhaps in regards to politics, perhaps not.

We have been unaffected so far (touch wood) by the riots in Bangkok (we hope you are well Tae), and the only effect the earthquakes have had on us was that we had trouble finding a hotel in Ao Nang because the tourists from Ko Phi Phi had all come in for a quick getaway in the case of another Tsunami.

Hope all are well, and not too wet (we heard about the cyclone).

Saintrinity
John and Tiff

Two Steps Back...

Hi All!

So, last news was of John's accident. Thankyou to all the well-wishes that came from home. They were welcomed and appreciated. The day after we got back from Krabi was spent resting for John. I climbed with Nina, our friend from the accident, and did one of the best pitches in the world - the third pitch of 'Beauty and the Beast' (6b+/20) has some of the best handholds - ergonomically shaped to the minutest measurement.

The next morning I was woken by the sweet sounds of vomit and other gastro delights from the bathroom. John was violently sick for the WHOLE day. The next morning things were looking slightly better, until his temperature went through the roof. I spent the day ummming and ahhhhing and finally decided to take him to Ao Nang to see the doctor there.

The trip into Ao nang proved very difficult. There were thoughts of pulling out the stretcher again. The walk from the cabin to reception was a struggle, with delirium and nausea pulling John this way and that. The staff obviously saw our trouble because not far down the road we were greeted by a tuk tuk driver (about 13 y.o. - probabaly moonlighting in his parents stead) who gave us a lift to the water. The pre-arranged long boat disappeared when we arrived at the beach, and after a little yelling, we were able to get John on the next boat available.

The sea was dark and stormy that night my friends, and the angry waves proved the antithesis to an already sick stomach. Eventually we made it and John collapsed on the bed in the doctor's surgery (which was a damn sight cleaner and more organised than at Krabi Hospital). The doctor gave John a needle to stop nausea so he could keep antibiotics down and we moved to a hotel room across the road. The doctor ruled out any connection to the concussion saying it was bad gastroenteritis (not that there's a good kind) but it can't have helped that John's immune system would have been down after the shock of the day before.

The next three days were filled with all sorts of nasty bathroom things, endless hours of Scrubs seasons 3 and 4 on dvd (with permanent terrible and hilarious english subtitles - I think the translator picked out words s/he recognised and then made the rest up from what action was happening on the screen), glorious hot showers and airconditioning (see, it wasn't so bad for me).

When we finally got John back to Tonsai (another difficult, exhausting trip), we rested and John had his first proper meal in four days.

The last two days we have resting, John slowly building his strength back up, and me catching up on lost sleep. Yesterday John couldn't get to reception for a meal, today he made it to Railay and back. His miracle food at the moment is ham and salad sandwiches with french fries.

So tomorrow he plans to climb for the first time since his quick draw to the head, and I am itching to start work on a 7c (27) project. Thankyou again to all those emails from home - it's great to hear from you. We will reply personally when we next go to Ao Nang (hopefully out of desire rather than necessity).

So - our trip so far:
Been here two weeks, climbed for one, been off for one sick and injured.
One quickdraw to the head, one bad bug in the stomach, seven kilos gone (and four off Tiff).
Priceless.
John's trip is going well so far. Well, bad things come in threes (the first was a bruised back as a result of a hammock accident - caused by Tiff - but that's another story).

Things we miss:
HOT WATER
PORK
people who understand the word 'doctor'
food we can trust
quickdraws that land beside you
non-sandy floors
bitumen roads
road rules
the breakfast menu at Macca's
DRINKING FROM THE TAP
not having to wait two hours from when you had a shower for the toilet to dry
not having to take your own toilet paper with you everywhere
electricity anytime you need /want it (and bright lights)
our own fridge
cooking your own meals
ALL OF YOU!!!

Things we don't miss:
the weight we lost
WORK (sorry Urban)
expensive everything
the sounds of roads outside at night
John Howard
I'm sure there's lots more here but we haven't been away long enough to appreciate them.

But we have just paid a month's rent at Paasook Resort (a total of $267) so have committed ourselves to being here a little longer. With any luck, John's fortunes should be on the rise and we can report home of sunshine, smiles and sends (climbing).

Love to you all. Peace to those who seek it.
Saintrinity
John and Tiff

Two Step

Sawadee kha/kop!!!!

We have deserted to Ao Nang (10 minute longboat ride from Ton Sai) for cheaper internet. We wil try to do this once a week to keep costs down.

A few pics from early on our trip, no climbing pics yet as there's only the two of us at the moment. The climbing here is everything we have dreamt of and much more. Every climb is an absolute joy to be on, even the hard ones - though we haven't tried too many yet, as we are happy to ease on into the groove.

We have been on Ton Sai beach now for about 5 days now and settling in nicely. We have moved from our first bamboo bungalow and upgraded to a brick shelter. Same price - 300 baht - about $10, and it has a flushing toilet, powerful shower, mirror, basin, more room, better security and a nice neighbourhood and restaurant with friendly (read genuine) people. Kind of like moving from camping in Boonah to an apartment in Kelvin Grove. Funny thing is, camping we had a powerpoint to recharge ipod, phone and camera batteries, whereas in the apartment we have to go to reception. Small price to pay though.

We have also encountered some monkeys around about our new place (won't find them in Kelvin Grove) and as evey tourist does, pointed, smiled and said "What cute monkeys!". The thing is though, they are "evil little humans" who take smiling (the baring of teeth) as a challenge. We haven't had any personal confrontations with the creatures (yet) - though we've heard of many second-hand.

Lots of food here - enough restaurants on Ton Sai to eat at a different one for each meal, three times a day, seven days a week. And that's not including the nearby townships of East Railay (Newmarket) and West Railay (Windsor). Sorry mum, the food here is not as good as John's cooking or Thai-Boo-Rin in said Windsor, or Thai Dream in West End. It's all so fatty - everything is fried (but at least you know it's cooked) or boiled (which is OK). Or maybe we're just not used to the 'real' Thai food. Having said that, we haven't sampled all the restaurants yet and although each one pretty much has the same menu, they all have a different taste.

We're just settling into life here. Met up with some friends from Brisbane, and had our first photo shoot yesterday - a freelance photographer doing some shots for "Urban Climber' Magazine and 'Women in Climbing' Calendar. Who knows - we might be famous! Each day blends into the one before and the one after. The day is governed by the tides and the heat. which area to climb at, when to eat, when to siesta, nap or sleep. When to do a waist high wade to the next beach, or catch a longboat to Ao Nang or Krabi. Life is so easy, and yet, it is what you make of it. We have already found a few climbs which could become projects, but have not quite had the energy or inclination to work them yet. We're still finding our feet and the way around. Skin is sore though, thanks for the Hand Jam Freya!

Jumping back a few days, almost a week now, to the departure point: we left Brisbane in a flurry of tears. A hitch at security when the Epirb we had in the Hand Luggage was queried, meant that our GST refund and boarding onto the plane was very rushed. Not the best way to start the trip, but allowed us to hold onto our emotions just a little longer.

Thanks heaps to AJ and Em, giving us a little pressie to open as the plane took off - beautiful pics of Clayton in the little climbing shoes we had given them for Christmas - and two yummy bars of soy chocolate (which we had yesterday thankyou very much)!

The flight was uneventful, which is good for a plane trip. We slept and watched movies, but mostly tried to sleep. They stuffed up our meals - we had asked for our special dietary requirements, but they had mixed up who had what and in what combinations (can you blame them?) and looking at the other passengers' meals we probably could have had what they were eating anyway.

When we arrived in KL we were trashed - emotionally and physically. We found where we needed to check in in seven hours, and then had our first overseas meal of.... wait for it.... Burger King (thanks Gem!). We then spread out on some seats and slept in turns until the person on watch started falling asleep as well. We then poked each other until it was time to get on the plane. We ended up paying an extra $115 or so dollars for excess baggage - more than our fares, but at least we have our climbing gear with us.

Whilst on the plane, we both started daydreaming and conversing in English with the Malaysian-speaking Captain's announcements. Yep, we were REALLY tired.

Watching the gorgeous pinnacles of limestone jutting momentously out of the ocean was great. The excitement just built and built, and then we reached the small un-momentous Phuket Airport. We had our photo taken by customs, and then got bad information from the 'Tourist Information' Counter (anyone who comes here, realise that 'Tourist Information' refers to a counter that a commercial business has taken over and has vested interest in - there are very few that are unbiased!!!)

We got ripped off by 100 baht (about three dollars) for a taxi to the main road where we caught a bus to Krabi (hailed on the side of the road while it was moving). This bus ride was our first real taste of Thai countryside - a country of halves. Not quite developed, but not quite rural. Bright colours and incongrous mixtures of modern and old - almost like development has taken place and infrastructure is catching up, rather than the other way 'round. They have roads, but no rules. Anything goes, any lane, shoulder, island can be driven on. Lots and lots of mopeds and bikes and tuktuks and bikes with covered side-utes, and sangteuws (covered utes with seats), with too many people to fit comfortably on the respective mode of transport.

We had Thai karaoke playing whilst on the bus - a strangely soothing sound and sight to send you off to sleep. The school girls in the seat behind us crooning softly to the Thai equivalent of U2 (although maybe not quite so famous). If they had the English translation underneath it would make a great way to learn the language!!!

Once we arrived at the Krabi bus station it was a MADHOUSE. Being mobbed by taxi drivers and the heat (coming out of the airconditioned airport and bus) was a bit overwhelming. We were ushered by a nice lady to another 'Tourist Information' counter who again led us astray, but we stuck to our guns (plans - guns were plan B) and took a taxi to a nice little guest house (recommended by Lonely Planet) right near the pier. We unloaded and took a walk along the riverfront. Feeling quite homesick and sorry for ourselves, we bought a pack of Pringles (not even $2) and soaked up our first sunset on foreign soil. Limestone cliffs in the background, longboats in the water, street vendors setting up behind us for the night trade and longboat drivers asking for our custom ("Boat Boat!!" "Rai Lay Rai Lay!!" "Where you go?"). We ate some BBQed Chicken and rice from the Vendors, had our last hot shower and crashed for 12 hours sleep in airconditioned comfort.

We awoke and ate at the guesthouse restaurant and learnt our first Thai - "Kop khun [kha (female)] [Kop (male)]" - "Thankyou". We then went shopping for SIM cards (which was extremely hard as we didn't know what any of the shops sold by looking at the signs). Found the place and had them connect us. This was a great exercise in foreign relations. Most locals speak some English, but not enough to hold a conversation with them. When we were asking one guy where the phone store was, we pointed at his phone and he thought we wanted to make a phone call on his phone (or he thought we were mugging him). We then caught a Songteuw to Ao Nang - a great experience. Everyone has to try it at least once!!! We were hanging onto the back of a ute, watching our luggage closely (the roof racks were very small), and feeling the freedom of zipping through the countryside, soaking in the culture.

The longboat ride to Ton Sai was awesome, mindblowing, incredible. The sea and the rocks were like we were in evey picture we've ever seen of Thailand. It was hard to believe we were actually 'in' it. It's still hard. We lugged our gear (all 60kg of it) up, and up, and up a hilly dirt track, in the middle of the day, searching for somekind of accomodation.

Eventually we found three places - one too expensive, one too basic, and one just right. This became our home for three nights. We got a little concerned with the security as you could easily unscrew (or even just yank) the latch and padlock off the doorway. It was very cute, cosy and full of character and tropical charm, but not really long-term material.

And there we have the journal of John and Tiff so far. We have many more steps to take, and you will hear them all. We have so much more to learn, everyday is such an amazing learning curve - about ourselves and how we approach things, and about this amazing world of ours.

The distance is felt, but made easier by the knowledge that we are in constant mobile contact with our loved ones. If you want our phone number, contact Tiff at rocknrain@hotmail.com or John at odysseus.jfx@gmail.com

Things we love about Thailand: the colour, the shrines on the side of the road, the patriotism (at least the proliferation of flags), the sights (not the smell - mostly sewerage, even in the kitchens), the street food vendors, the way the locals laugh at us when we butcher their language but are ever so helpful in correcting us, the way the rock holds your hand, tying into a climb two minutes from your bunalow, seeing your bungalow from the anchors of a climb, the welcoming calls from bar owners sitting in the shade and languishing in the heat of the day. So much, and yet, home is still so far away. But still, the definition of home has changed, and our perception of it as well.

Hope you are all as well as we left you. Words from home are welcomed and cherished.

John and Tiff
saintrinity

The view from breakfast... Medium tide means that you have to boulder or wade to get to the walls on the other side of the outcropping.

Our first bungalow from the outside - high on a hill, deep in the jungle.

John in our first bamboo bungalow... The gaps in the weaving mean we have stars inside at night!!!

Our first bathroom - no flush, no basin, no hot water and no water pressure. The bucket was our flush and basin...

Sunset Series 6

Sunset Series 5

Sunset Series 4

Sunset Series 2

Sunset Series 3

Sunset Series 1

Coming into Ton Sai on a Longboat

On a Longboat

Boats on the Horizon

Journey of a Thousand Steps - Step One

Leave Airport and double hand match over the eyes...

Followed by dyno to KL, dyno to Phuket, dyno to Krabi and rap to Tonsai.

Love you all lots - just setting this up to start.

First climb today went well and was all we had hoped it would be. Thankyou everyone who got us here - you are in our thoughts.